Scotland 2009 -Trip to Arran- by Alice

Isle of Arran – Scotland

Walking the Coast of Arran in Aid of Barton Hill Centre

Early April a journey was just beginning to take place into the unknown territory of an island off the coast of Scotland. An island that is pint sized version of Scotland. This is Arran.
I have seen the horizon of the Scottish hills from a distance on the English side, but never set a foot in real Scotland. The most ideal opportunity came when I had an idea to walk the coast of Arran that is about 65 miles in circumference. I also wanted to contribute towards a specialised centre that I have been volunteering at for a few years already. To create a solo sponsored walk that was to take my dog Taz, a Blue Merle Sheepdog, my rucksack and myself along this coast.
The centre is called ‘The Barton Hill Centre’ it is based on a working farm in Kentchurch, Herefordshire, nestled up in the hills of ‘The Golden valley’ and close to the River Dore, which runs into the River Monnow.

The Centre is for young adults with learning disabilities who need extra space in their life to just be around animals and working outside. Gaining skills and getting exceptional hands-on experience through Animal Therapy, Horticultural Therapy and working with the environment.

The Start of the Journey

Before even starting the solo walk on Arran planning and preparation was not an easy task as it involved getting waterproof maps and a mass of information about the walk. And finding dog friendly accommodation around the island, booking them weeks ahead and confirming them. Also how much to take in my rucksack, which some days would include dog food and compass and my snack food and also making sure I had emergency telephone numbers.

Driving from Herefordshire to Ardrossan, Scotland was not to be taken lightly as it would mean lot of stops to change drivers as I was sharing driving with my mum and to our stretch legs and give the dog time stretch and to mull over a few things. We had an overnight stop in Penrith, which is near Carlisle, giving us time to not rush to catch the ferry.
On the 10th of April 2009, we (car/dog& me) bordered The Caledonian MacBrayne ferry much earlier than expected as the ticket officer allowed us to be squeezed last onto the earlier ferry. My mum was able to catch an earlier train back to Herefordshire. I would be leaving my car at the first b&b unitil I walked all the way around the island.

The ferry was very large and powerful churned through the sea at a good pace. The sea was not that calm as it had to contend with lot of wind. Through the windows of the ship, the isle of Arran came into view, a super sight to see with magnificate mountains and hills standing out in the distance and the vast size of the walk I would be doing. The trip across took just under hour from Ardrossen ferry port to Brodick Ferry port.

Once the ship had docked we drove from the ship over very loud metal gangway bridge over the water onto quite tarmac road. The sun beamed down on us and the warm sea smells come in through the windows. The island was fresh and waiting for us. I drove to the first b&b which was Dunvagan guest house situated just 200 yrds from the port. Its location is on the side of the road with a view of the sea. Bright red fence greets you and a large red sign post with their guest house name written across it. I stayed here on the first night which was Good Friday.
Easter Saturday morning started 7:00am with a short stroll with the dog. A hearty breakfast was waiting for me which was full Scotish breakfast and a mini Easter egg. I enjoyed this immensley in the front breakfast room with sea view.

Once I had got the dog and myself sorted for the challenge ahead of me I had a bit of nervous butterflies in my stomach but that soon went as the sun warmed us up and I could see the beach and sea in motion. Waves lapping at the beach, light breeze swirling the sand back into the sea. The walk started along the pavement which was on the other side of the road from the b&b and also right up againist the sea shore. Between the the sea and the pavement I was on a little stretch of grass with benches intermitatly spread along the sea front for people to sit and watch the world go by. As the pavement continued you reach a well mown square bowling green. The road further on goes inland into Brodrick. At the corner of the bowling green you curl between the green and the stores. The path starts as tarmac gravel then goes on to sandy soft grass path cutting in front of the childrens play area which is situated on medium size grass field by the beach.

Walking along this path takes you through a few gorse bushes on eitherside of you and then takes you over several small concrete bridges going over small rivers flowing to the sea. Many speices of plants and marshland plants are scattered below these bridge or along the banks of the water, while seagulls, taking advantage of the light sea breeze, are surfing on the wind. Ostercatchers scanning the edge of the water-front for bugs to eat. The sandy path contiued further along the coast and through more brighter yellow gorse bushes.
A sign comes up to warn you about a golf course you are about to cross “watch out” for I would say “flying golf balls”. Taz was really jolly trying to dig up sand or roll in interesting smells. I was not amused but we contuinued on and after a while she also got into a better rythum. We carefully crossed the golf corse and crossed a small black metal wood-slatted bridge and went downstream towards the coast passing a black mongrel and owner enjoying the water and the sandy pathes. The path then had much larger gorse bushes now on either side of you. This is the fisherman’s pathway. Straight infront of you, to the right, you are able to see Brodick Castle intermingaled in the woodland. Following this path with the coast on the right and the beach we crossed another small bridge which comes out at a small wooden building and onto the road. If you cross over this road you start the Goatfell walk up a mountain to a peak 874 meters high. This can be part of the coastal way but I did not do this as I was trying to stay as near to the sea as I could.

So I continued along the road where the occasional drivers are careful to give you space. I stayed on the sea front side of the road all the way. There was no access on to the shore as there were trees and shrubs up close to the road and small jagged rocks by the edge of the sea. This used to be the old Bodick quary slipway. On the inland side of the road thick woodland trees mixed in with many different plants and mosses. The road contiues for a good 6 miles continusly until you reach Corrie. The coastal way contiues inland into the forested areas to give different terrain but I didn’t want to get lost so I stuck to this roadand enjoyed the surrounding area views of the sea and the sun!. Half way along you come to a picnic bench which is situated just off the road towards at Rubha Salach which is grassed area so we stopped here for some time soaking in the atmosphere around. From here we continued along some of the grass then the road again taking us over the bridge called Corrieburn. The water that flows under this one is called High Corrie Burn along with any other smaller burns that are near by. All these burns were highly usful for the dog to drink saving me carrying water for the dog but I was carrying my water and a very small bottle if the dog needed any.

Once across this bridge you meet up with few houses sprawled along the side of the road each one with different types of gardern or fencing. Then you come into the village of Corrie. Here was my 2nd night stay here I spent the rest of today looking at the wildlife out on the sea or looking around the village and investigating the plants around. Starting to note down what to write about this dairy/ story. Also I had my picnic lunch sitting on the harbour wall. This had 2 metal white sheep and one blank for hooking up boats in the harbour. During the afternoon and evening I went for a stroll up and down the village passing a school and a church and talking to some of the locals.
/supper……

Corrie to Catacol

The next day the I woke up up 6:30 / 7:00 breackfast to be able to set off before the heat of the day as the weather looked as through it was going to be a cooker. The walk today was going to be a lot longer and harder. Yesterday was just a taster. The morning brought lots of different seagulls and ravens testing out their flight wings on the sea breeze and sunning themselves on rocky outlets of boulders and on roof tops. Delivery vans coming and going along the road giving supplies here there and everywhere. The road ahead was empty of cars and only a few vans. The Taz was keen as ever to get a move on she was as a fit a a fiddle and full of energy . Still following the road but every so often we would walk on the grassy verge as it was softer but it kept on getting thinner and thinner pushing you back on to tarmac road. The coast was not letting up on any beach walking as the road was holding itsself right up to the stoney rocky areas. As the road turned slighty inland only for a second or so then opened up to the next village of South Sannox.

South Sannox was still a small village but slightly larger than Corrie. We both had a 20 minuet stop sitting by the beach which stretched far over a small river estery of the Sannox Burn (River) to the next beach. Sea gulls bobbing up and down on the waves and a few were pacing up and down the beach. Small waves crashing at the small rocky outlets. On the other side of the road a hive of activity was happening behind the cottages. This was from different types of small sparrows and many other species, that I didn’t recognise, diving in and out of a woodland. The floor of the woodland was spralwling with brambles and bracken.


upon a burn that was full of different size rocks and pebbles. No sooner had I placed my first foot on stepping stones than a rather muddy wet tail wagging Taz had placed herself right up against the side of my trouser leg. I moved on swiftly as I knew that there was a muddy shake coming my way. The stepping stones were large rectrangle blocks of concrete partly suberged under water. The warming sun twinkled through the spiney bright yellow gorse bushes which were lining the sandy pathway in front of us. The path followed the burn down stream towards the sea. Just as you are about to reach the beach and the sea. Tucked behind several bigger gorse bushes a small muddy path creeps along between back garden gates and the gorse bushes. At the end of this path it opens out to very small sand dune area with different grasses and plants spread about. A tall white metal post is situated on the sea front side of the path. This is here to mark the southern end of the “Sannox measured mile”. It was placed here to be used for time trails for many famous ships. The path seperates in two directions. One heads further away from the sea and other towards the sea. Trees of many discriptions line each of these paths. Taking the path that leads inland, towards North Sannox, a gaint cliff face, once cleaned by the sea, scales high into a thicker wooded vegetation mix with both ferns and bracken. Beneath this I see a group of people enjoying the midday sun drinking and chatting around burnt-out camp fire.
The path was well trodden with many shapes and sizes of foot prints going back and forth in the mud! Ocassional horse dropping to watch out for. A very slight incline, to many not noticable, the uneven cobbled path winds its way through a deightful woodland. Upon reaching The North Sannox burn (river) straight ahead the path goes upstream. Small stepping stones across the river allow you to go directely over and up onto the other bank which crosses over to the campsite. If stones are covered by water, as they were for us, you stay on the cobbled path leads slowly up stream to a tarmac road. Once you reach here you cross a white railed metal bridge heading towards an eqestrian centre on the coast where the tarmac runs out and now you are walking on a wide open sandy gritted path. The track steadly takes you past a campsite right by the sea. On the other side of the track is a thick, deep woodland, Leac Gharbh. This belongs to Scottish forestry commission.

A wagging tail slinked past me .It was trying to counterbalance a swaying low head of an excieted Taz trying to greet a goldern reteriver who was taking his owner for a walk. The views where stunning of the far open sea and little ripples of waves tickling the edge of the sea. The path,still wide, follows along the edge of the sea until you walk past a sign post staying “The fallen Rocks 1 ½ miles”.

. The woodland opens up to let you see the steep side of a mountain called Creag a’ Chaise. A tall, 6 foot plus, deer fencing made from pig wire and tall wooden fence post poles faces us but there is a sturdy wooden gate with a latch. The fence was to keep deer in. Under foot the terrain became a lot more wild rather than park area. Different types of boulders, stones and pebbles lay on the path ahead of me. Near the shore pebbles and small rocks lined the sea front. The fallen rocks are a group of large boulders that have once cascaded down from the mountain in to the sea and have been rolled about for maybe thousands of years. The views across the sea are the islands of Bute and The Cumbras. The path was becoming marshy in places, muddy at other times until the terrian become tougher. By that I mean slow going under foot. At each step you had to make sure it was safe and you where not going to hurt yourself at any time. The weather started to change, starting to close in. I was trying to not panic but I found something deep inside me to keep my best foot forward. I looked up towards the steep faces of the Creag Ghlas Laggan range where the clouds were slowly curling down the face. I knew further on there was an escape route in between the hills at Laggon cottage but I did not like the look of the scramble up into those clouds. I would of taken it if the sea was to come in. As I walked on path ahead seemed to go on for miles, intermingling with rocks as we wound the best way through different types rocks and wet and muddy patches. Heading straight along the coast you are able to see a white cottage coming into view. This is Laggon cottage. The escape route exits up and over the hills. I continued past to the cottage and towards the Cock of Arran much further North along the coastline.

Once you are past the cottage the terrian become harder with much larger boulders. I was following the small circular yellow splash of paint in these boulders to keep myself on the right track. I first walked up little steepish slope leading you around a clump of trees and a well muddy area. As you reached the top of that mound your decent was down a slippery slope onto the main boulder-rock-hopping-maze.

Taz was still very carm just searching her most convenent way through the boulders. I tried to enjoy the views but as I was doing this first time on my own it was very energetic to all of my body, heaving myself, rucksac and holding the lead of the dog up and over very lage boulders which somewhere slightly taller than me and I am 6 ft. I was definatly chalageing myself. There are a few times where you have to do some interesting manouvers over boulders, cracks and rocks. Much further on the terrain becomes slightly less difficult but still picking your way through the rocks and boulders and sides of grass banks. I tried to look for Ossian’s Cave which was just before the Cock of Arran but I found it hard to spot from the shore line. I was unsure exactly which boulder was the Cock of Arran as in the booklet I was following states that the head of cockeral shape boulder has fallen off (ref booklet: The Arran coastal Way). Once pass the Cock the terrain is still boulder hopping but at mid to low tide you can avoid problems by keeping low on beach however, at high water you can’t get away from without doing more interesting manouvers through the boulders. Further on the boulders became a lot less challenging and I was back on grassland with ocassional rock protruding from the grass.
Ahead of me I could see Fairy Dell Cottage and the headland of Lochranza. Outside the cottage we met a Bearded collie looking like matted walking carpet which had missed the sheep shearing time. It looked a very well fed and looked after it was defintely a working dog.

The path turns right at a small bogus ‘stone circle’ towards the shore then turns left towards the coast and Newton point. I walked along the the very boggy area. This I would not recommend as there was a shore line of pebbles that I could have walked along instead. The point has a good location finder, a concrete pillar with a metal disc on the top pointing to landmarks. This was dedicated to those who have done so much for geology and walking on Arran (ref: The Arran Coastel Way) . As I walked past the point locater the path joined onto a minor tarmac road. Here I was just about to find a place to stop and rest when one of the older locals who was just opening his cottage gate, stopped asked me how old was the dog. He also wanted his wife to see Taz (blue merle sheepdog) as they had just lost a dog with simular colour markings. They invited me in to sit in their gardern and offered me Tea and freshly made scones. They realised that we had just completed the Cock of Arran. By the way the amount of mud caked on each of us we told a story and a half. The husband (Ian) and wife (Avril) asked me what I was doing? I told them that I was raising money for Barton Hill Centre by walking around the isle of Arran. They were very kind and donated a cheque to the Centre. After a good hour of chatting about the village and telling me stories about the castle I was on my way through Lochranza. We where on the South Newton side looking over to Lochranza.

Lochranza is Arran’s most northerly village with it’s ruined castle standing perched near the far shore line in the distance. Boats of all shapes, sizes and types rested either out on the sea or upside down on the shore. The main river runs down the length of the valley, which is fed from the high up Glens. Glen Chalmadale and Gleann Easan Biorach empty themselves into Lochranza and away out to the sea. The whole village is surround by vast, magnificent views of a valley of hills, trees and wild red deer roaming freely around. The locals have to have deer fencing around all the cottages to stop deer eating their gardens.

We were still top to toe covered in wet mud especially inside my one of my boots! Taz was still dripping wet mud from nose to tail and caked in mud even after meeting with the locals who had invited us in. Pacing ourselves, after the challenge we had just done from rock hopping and boulder bashing, Catocal well over 3 miles away and the afternoon sun starting to go, the wind picked up and the temperature started to drop as we trecked on. After a while we both warmed up. Following the coastal shore over soft grass for a little while we came across several gully ways that the river was creating to let the water out to sea. We turned around to go back onto the tarmac road. The view was very special with the evening sun reflecting off the water and lighting up the hillsides. So, as the road bends towards the bridge and not taking the road going further inland, we reached a T-junction. Straight in front of you is St Bride’s Church. White walls rimmed with pale yellow corner panels. The main road you are now just about to walk on is the Glen Chalmadale, which can take you either back Sannox or towards Lochranza castle and Catacol.

Catacol was the next destination for that night. There was plenty of road close to the coast but when we could we walked along the cobbles on the beach. The Arran coastal way booklet takes you slightly inland off the road but I was following the coast and enjoying the sea air, seagulls and any other wildlife out to sea. On the outskirts of Lochranza village is a working ferry port taking you to either Claonaig (summer only) or Tarbert (Winter only). You are also able to see red deer lying around on the shore or gently on the move to better grazing places. The road sweeps slightly around a corner and hugs the shoreline continuing all the way to Catacol about 3 miles of flat terrain.

Catacol starts with a few houses set back from the road up towards the hills behind them. As you follow down the road you came to Catacol hotel (dog friendly). Its location was fantastic, right by the beach, food was very well done and accommodation was very good. As you walk past the hotel a small row of white crofts (cottages) spread down the roadside all with good views out to sea each one with individual gardens. The whole area is in a quite and peaceful place with spectacular views of the valleys, seashore and the sea of the Kilbrannan sounds.

Catacol – Blackwaterfoot

7:00 Starting with a good size breakfast well settled in we stepped out into a fresh, sweet smelling breeze of sea air. We crossed over the road and walked along the shore until we came to river Abhainn Bheag spilling out to sea the water from the hills on the other side. A small low stone bridge was the way over this river. We walked across it then onto the grass verge on the side road giving us a different terrain to walk on and still very near the sea. Catacol bay was a small but well sited area.

After crossing the very small bridge and with the bay behind you follow the road, which crosses another river called the Abhainn Mor then on to the next section of the walk taking care and staying well to one side as the road twists and undulates with blind spots where cars are unable to see you as they approach. Plenty of rugged rock formations to enjoy on the way along with caves and after few miles a burial ground. The inland side of the road has many little bubbling, tinny-sounding burns trickling down the rocks or through moss. High up behind these the Creagan Fhithich hill is hidden out of sight by cliff faces and trees. Half way between Catacol and Pirmill we had a pause for a drink and something to nibble near the Rubha Airigh Bheirg. The coastal shore continues for some while so you can see for miles out towards the out lines of other islands far out to sea. As the road is so close to the shoreline it drifts down towards Pirmill. Just before reaching Pirmill is a signpost to Corie Lochan stating it is 1.5 miles to a scattered village of Pirnmill. This name comes from the Pirns, or bobbins, which were manufactured here (part is ref: Arran coastal way). Walking through Pirmill are great views of the sea, different types of rocks and shoreline to enjoy. Near the middle of the village a long open sandy beach area of small estuaries with water trickling out down and finding is way out into the sea across vast open pan of sand. Once we were on the way we headed toward White Farland, the next small settlement.

I stayed on the road as I had a long way to go was not keen to walk the shore line getting my feet wet and sandy with several miles still to be covered. The road went slightly inland but I stayed near the seashore with a brief, steep incline. The views from the top were very good with bracken; the tops of wind-swept trees and of course the coast. On this walk you do see a lot of the sea. I would have enjoyed going down towards the White Farland Point but I was unsure of the tide times and did not want to get stuck. Looking at the map now, when I am writing this, it does not look a hard detour to the coast but there was a large rock formation high up and leaning partly over the road. I would say it had plenty of history behind it. This was accessible after a short, easy road walk.

Imacher was a very small area with a cluster of farm houses and houses, each getting wonderful sea views. From here was a small decline down to the sea. Once back on the shoreline turn around so you can see where you have been and then look down the coast to see the sea and the many more rock formations. Here we enjoyed a good long break. On the opposite side of the road wide-open fields with dry stonewalls, bracken and trees intermittently scattered. After watching seagulls surfing the wind above the sea, I heaved up my rucksack back onto my back and we continued onwards, walking between the road and the pebbly shore along the strip of soft grass.

Sheep ahead of us created a walking barrier across the road. Taz’s calm posture suddenly seemed to freeze. Each muscle rippled through her body as each paw was placed firmly on the ground. Ears pricked up eyes locked on to the target. I slowly encouraged her back a few meters to allow the sheep with lambs to take their time to move away from us.
We got half way along from Imachar to Dougarie and stood near the point of Rubha Airigh Dughaill. Gradually we continued to Dougarie, a small boat harbour with a boathouse, slip way and a small bridge going across Lorsa water. The going was very good with the sun still beaming down and a blustery wind whipping the sea up onto us. The views inland where just amazing with rocks and cliff faces covered in all different vegetation.




The Western side of Arran is less well developed than eastern side of the island. A small harbour village of Blackwaterfoot is situated near the edge of the beach like many of the island’s communities. The Clauchan water runs under the stone and concrete bridge into the harbour. The journey that the water has done is from high up in hills flowing over many different kinds of stone, large and small, before it bubbles out to sea. Fishing boats lie moored up waiting to head off into the open ocean.

Quiet, misty sea breezes whisper past us on our early morning stroll before breakfast that was so nicely presented and cooked. Taz was having hers in our room. The rucksack was partly empted as we had another night here booked in case I needed more time on this side of the island. So we took a day off walking. Yes! I thought. Taz had other ideas in her head. The next day’s walking was going to be long, so Taz was inspired to take me for a walk to Lagg then catch a bus back to Blackwaterfoot. In the morning we would catch a bus to Lagg (I promise this was the only bus I used!). By doing this we could explore around Blackwaterfoot during the evening on both days.

Blackwaterfoot - Lagg

Dark, enormous clouds started to kick into action stirring up a hard side-on wind with diagonal rain coming in from the other way squeezing us in between. This is when I found out my waterproofs were not waterproof. I was a tuff cookie and I just laughed about it. It was not the end of the world and I would be able to get dry at the end of the day. Yes, I would not have laughed if the rain continued all week! Really I should have remembered to check them before I went. Top priority next trip!
The weather had jeopardised our plot of walking along the shoreline. It looked unsafe for me to walk on slippery boulders and pebbles in the mist and fog. The cliff top walk was another option but this was not advisable as there were free-range animals, sheep with lambs and cattle with calves. Sheepdogs, collies especially, have a natural instinct of trying to “round up” sheep. I was not going to let my dog ‘worry’ these animals so the only other option was to follow the road, which took you more inland. On a clear day you would see the coast but not today. The weather was not going to let up as we went past pony-trecking at Cairnhouse Stables situated about 200yrds (approx) from the B&B we stayed at. We passed a field where the farmer was trying to round up 2 misbehaving calves back into his barn. Continuing from here the road peels off back to the visitor centre or continues around the edge of the coast towards Lagg. The coast was still misty. I hoped it was going to clear, as I would have dived at the chance to give a go to that section of the walk.


Highland cows were a spectacle to see. With their long horns, long hair and gentle as they come manners they are out grazing on exposed fields with whatever elements the weather can offer. Rain drops sliding off the already saturated thick gold brown fur of the highland cows.
Damp filled the air. The heavy rain ceased. The mist still hovered over a quite peacefulness and the only sounds were of rain drops rolling off the leaves of trees onto wet vegetation below and the trickles of burns refilling with fresh rain water. A stream of wet mud hurtled pass with the added bonus of a wet shake while Taz’s nose had picked up a scent. Legs then body followed in pursuit. The scent took the nose directly straight into a fence. This was also the end of the lead. The expression of a puzzled looking dog’s face is amusing. This didn’t stay for many seconds as her nose sniffed the air briefly we continued on. Light started to push through the dense, misty clouds not much but just enough to splash colour onto the dark silhouette of a tree bringing life back to it after the rain had drenched it. At a steady pace we splashed our way through grubby road puddles. The road slightly cornered toward the coast where a small children’s swing and a picnic site announced we had reached Corriecavie. We really wanted to go down on to the shore but the weather was not letting up. A harder strong wind was bringing a mist over and we had walked too far along to get down the cliff. We continued, passing different plants and rock formations. Cliff views would have been stunning if weather held out. Sea gannets and sea gulls flying around playing with the wind I would have enjoyed more if I was walking along the coastal pebbles not along a road. We gave it our best shot walking and enjoying the close view! Heather, brambles and bracken had twisted and sprawled along the edges of the hills and over cliff faces. Sparsely covered, wind-sweep trees lined the edges of cliff faces. Sliddery was the next on the line of villages. If safer, we would have been at sea level and would have come up to rejoin the road here to cross the Sliddery Water made up from many different burns high up in the mountain. The Arran coastal way booklet shows that this section of road is part of the way going from Sliddery Bridge to Lagg via the road but I was trying to find a different route with no luck! I needed another terrain to walk on. Road walking is tiring. We trundled on. It was getting a lot clearer, still drizzle, wet but a lot brighter as we descended a steep, curly part of the road reaching the Lagg Hotel, a sturdy, white-washed, smart building with black-framed roof and paintwork. A hot chocolate was next on the list as we where both soggy right through and needed a warming up.

As the hotel’s bright red tartan coloured carpet greeted us the hotel manager came over and said dogs where not allowed. He was very kind and permitted me to take Taz with me as he could see that we looked wet. The only thing he said about the dog was to keep it well under the table. No complaint from here nor under the table as the fire was doing both a large favour. From here it was back to Blackwaterfoot B&B by bus. The views became partly blurred as the bus sped back along the coast we had just walked. We stayed the night then bussed it back to Lagg hotel in the morning. During the rest of that afternoon and evening at Blackwaterfoot we were keen to explore Machrie bay.

Starting from the golf club at Blackwaterfoot and heading towards the beach we joined the path above the golf course. This path is well signposted ‘Arran Coastal way’. It takes you across the golf course, out over a stile into a field through patches of mud before the path sweeps around taking you through a metal kissing-gate into yet another field. This section is short and sweet taking you down towards the sea through a large metal gate. Once out of the field the two coast paths are waiting. One is thin path under towering cliff Doon Fort near Drumadoon Point.
Drumadoon point is never short of natural spectacle and with the high evening sun breaking through the clouds casting eerie shadows, like curtains on a stage, falling down on to the high cliff edge. Ravens and seagulls squabbling for their space for the night in any one of the crevasses on the rock face.
Following the other path along the shore takes you to north to King's Cave. This is where King Robert the Bruce is reputed to have hidden after he was defeated in 1306. The walk takes you through bracken and grass or seaweed if you were lower on the shore. The evening light was starting to fade but we continued all the way along until the boulders. The king’s cave was just out of reach. That was a pity as I was keen to see it.

Lagg/Kilmory towards Kildonan

Lagg is very sheltered, down in a small valley where the warm currents, fed from the Gulf Stream, help to encourage the growth of palms and Japanese maples in the gardens around the main Lagg hotel. The burn known as Kilmory Water runs through the hotel grounds on its way to the beach. That is a pleasant walk from the hotel as we walked across a small, delightful bridge with the calm, bubbling water beneath on its way out to sea. Just stop there and enjoy the sound of the many tunes of the birds in the trees and the meditation of the water beneath.
Spending time here was very well appreciated to take time from all the worries of life. Bringing a refreshing state of mind. Walking on from here was exciting, being out and about on this voyage of discovery. There might have been lot more road walking than I had expected but even so I was still able to really appreciate the views of the sea, beach, forests and different sizes of mountains with burns flowing through them.

The woodland that had been planted near to the edge of the river gave this part of the road plenty of shade while the other side was also packed very densely with trees creating tunnel along and curling up the steep hill to Kilmory. The village is near to some fantastic beaches with huge sandy bays and interesting rock pools. The coastline is where you can generally see large colonies of grey seal.The Kilmory Cairns are a set of Neolithic chambered cairns lying southwest of the village. Skeletal remains and a flint knife were found inside (not by me). I would have definitely liked to take a detour toward the coast to see the Neolithic chamber cairns, not far from the Lagg hotel down towards the coast. The boulder field continues for nearly half a kilometre after the cave, but eventually is replaced by a reasonable path along the shore to Kildonan (ref: The Arran Way). The boulder field is what stopped me and my dog because I am very careful with her as she has hip problem. As we had already done a boulder field we wanted a more gentle way. Even so it was still hard going, up and down the road. Really fantastic views were nice to see and to photograph. The booklet that I was trying to follow states that the tides and hard boulder hopping for well over few miles was not to be taken light heartedly as it is very slow going and hard to complete for some people.(ref. The Arran coastal way).

We decided to walk along the road and see different things. Of interest was the Torrylinn Creamery making the same creamy-tasting, Dunlop type cheese with the old creamery methods using milk from black and white Friesian cows. We passed several fields and woodlands with selection of sheep and horses. Amazing views of hills with sparkling sun hitting the tops of trees with high winds gusting the branches and us! Every so often we would get glimpse of the sea. We stopped on the green bench with a sea view had our lunch and, yes, I did give the dog some of mine!

The road dropped down towards Kildonan, which is situated near the beach. As we had got here in good time we walked double back along the beach towards the section which, if no boulder field was there, we would of come along here or if the tide was right towards Kildonan. The sea was calm with ripples, seagulls flying around, oystercatchers sunning themselves, seals bobbing up and down. Looking up on the cliffs, waterfalls cascaded down. We walked right up to it. The sound was loud and the splash from it a lot! The rock formations on the cliff face were really good and also there were very interesting rock formations along the beach. We spent late afternoon walking all the way until we reached some boulders just before the black cave. As the evening came we headed back, wet by the rain, to a very nice b & b in Kildonan.



Kildonan to Kingscross

The morning was sunny and we set of to walk to Kingscross, our next destination. The walk started along a beach with amazing sea views. High up on the cliff are the remains of Kildonan castle. I continued around the beach and the long grasses then changed my mind to stay safe as I had not worked out the tide times before hand. The booklet states that Dippin head is not passable at high tide so this part of the Way I chickened-out and stayed on the road but if the dog was fit with no hip problems I would have done it but further on there were more boulders and brambles to walk through.

The way we went was to follow the road but each time we found any signs of a footpath we took it to get off the road and investigate the area. There where fantastic views of the sea and smells of gorse bushes and plenty of livestock.

Whiting Bay is a small village near the beach, which we walked along as a welcome break after hours of road walking. Hot chocolate was in order and we had a super one out side the coffee house. After this we walked along the beach watching swans strolling along and sea gulls swooping in the air. The beach stretched far and wide. I am not sure where we stopped for lunch along here as it was basically the same beach and sights. After our lunch, as we continued, the pebbles replaced the sand the wind started up. The smell of fresh sea air was refreshing the seagulls surfing in the sea. There were small rocks to scramble over for a while. The Holy island was in view. A small island, with a big personality, sitting out of the sea. You need to see it to understand what I mean! From here I now went inland to find my next B&B.
Kingscross is situated on the east side of the island. The day started with full Scottish breakfast with amazing sea view and a red squirrel running across the lawn. (beat that). It is a small peaceful area, with outstanding views of the Holy Island. The size of the Holy island is very small in scale to Arran but it stands out of the sea with the height. Once on our way, we picked our route along the flattish boulders until around the corner we came out and up onto flat open grassland following the path that lead through to the coast and shore line. The coastal beach was made up of shells, seaweed and pebbles. Boats of different shapes and sizes which had either been left upside down on the beach or out at sea sailing. Taz and I followed this beach until we came across a “out of bounds” sign at a harbour pier. We walked up onto the harbour and looked across the next section, made up of small boulders covered in seaweed and slime(!) towards Lamlash. The tide was out but we did not feel that it was right, as it was someone’s property.
Our coast walk turned up a slope driveway that then took us back towards Kingscross but then it took you towards Lamlash onto main road, which was not our objective but we walked on. I was thinking I should have walked along the shoreline but I don’t feel that obliged if a sign is up saying out of bounds and rope is across the shoreline. The Holy Island looked like it grew lot bigger as I was walking, but it was because I was looking at it from a different perspective. The countryside had a vast range of different flora, fauna and plenty cattle and sheep grazing on it. The road seemed to go on and on, but “enjoy the blue skies and the views”. The road continued down towards Lamlash so we followed a footpath that took you off the road, towards the coast and down through the village of Cordon. This was the outskirt of Lamlash.

The path started with a few downhill steps that followed into a wooded track then came out at a few back gardens and houses, which spoiled my view. Following the small roads you then walk towards the coast along a well-used dog walkers path. Crossing a few wooden bridges along the way we met a bearded collie called Rolf (I had a photo taken of Taz, Rolf and myself). The village of Lamlash is well spread out, with houses of many descriptions and some shops. On getting, here we went straight down to the beach and really enjoyed the sea. Taz bolted into the sea trying to wipe out a sea gull on the way. Following the beach I really had a peaceful time walking the edge of the sand and the beginning of the sea. Following the beach all the way to the end you come to a footpath leading straight past the Arran Outdoor Centre. The path then takes you along the sea front until Chauchlands Point. You can see Hamiton isle, sea birds sitting on the rocks out in the sea taking in the sun’s rays. As we walked slightly around the corner there were old war boxes, which were used in two world wars as look out shelters.

From here we walked well-trodden path, so close to the sea that wind was defiantly chucking the spray from the waves up and over the path - very dramatic. The path was so wet and very boggy that I had walked about half way along the well-trodden path when it became a small weedy path with not much definition. With that amount of spray I was not feeling that safe so I trecked back all the way to the war boxes and took a path up hill towards Dun Fionn Peak, one of the many hills on Arran. This was not easy with high wind blowing and steep cliff edge. I got to the top and had stop to get my breath back to normal. Down the other side was steep but manageable. I followed a path down hoping it was going down to the sea again so I could continue following the sea. The only thing was that the path ran out! I then saw deer in front, so it was not a footpath. It was access for deer on the hillside. As we got further down / across the hillside a fence greeted us and stopped us in our tracks with a dark, thick forest. I thought to scramble over fence into forest but I don’t like the darkness of forest on my own. Following the fence down towards the coast, dense vegetation slowed my pace ducking under thick brambles and gorse bushes. It seemed slow going I don’t recommend this way to anyone. I then got greeted by a well-worn fence to stop you falling down a large cliff edge to the coast! This was not the plot but I carefully picked my way through the old gate across from that edge. Just as I got to the gate there was a small stream (burn). I placed a foot over it not realising it was a bog on the other side so my foot/boot, to just below the knee, got wedged in. I had to think carefully. My other foot and leg was placed and I knelt down to spread my weight. Taz was helpful in helping me out by pulling me out. I was getting in a pickle and slightly out of energy but I walked on trying to enjoy the gorse bushes and glimpses of the coast. I stopped for a half hour to locate the area I was in, with the map.

Careful I tried to locate a farm up the hill, further out of the marshy areas, where cattle and horses had mashed it all up. Once I got to the top, via gate, it was very welcome to see a farm track. All present and correct. We both continued to the path. The place we had come to was Corriegills bridge so we followed a track through woodlands, passing horses, cattle and hens and made our way over a few footpaths to stay off the road so made our way back to Brodick. A very welcome sight.

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